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CAN bus system additions
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Well alrighty then! Glad it all worked out!
Thanks Chris,

I took Pete’s advice and got the Eastern Beaver setup. It’s currently sitting in my craft room in the box because I’ve been devouring several long-awaited new books instead of fixing things! 

The horns are installed, albeit on a temp basis, waiting for the EB install. They are loud af and I amazingly didn’t drown them at Spring Fling, low as they are. 

We need to make the brackets to attach the lights to the crash bars. Brandon *loves* fabrication so he’s taking care of that for me. We need to reconfigure the placement of everything because I think it’s too low for water crossings, not that I many. Other than that, I think we have everything we need to finish, it’s just a matter now of actually doing it. 

Jennifer

On May 6, 2018, at 11:46 AM, BMWMCON - Tech <tech@bmwmcon.org> wrote:

Jennifer,

Don't know what the status on your project is, but generally, there are kits available to connect lights, horns, and such, to the electrical system, so no real knowledge of electronics is needed.

For the horn, I would recommend the Denali SoundBomb Mini ($27)- you will need the BMW wiring adapter ($15), but it otherwise plugs right into the stock horn location and it sounds GREAT! There are other systems out there, but they require a lot more installation time and various wiring kits. I bought mine from Revzilla.

If your bike has a 12V adapter, you can tap into one of those wires, which will only allow the lights to come on when the bike is running.

Hope this helps.
Jennifer,

Don't know what the status on your project is, but generally, there are kits available to connect lights, horns, and such, to the electrical system, so no real knowledge of electronics is needed.

For the horn, I would recommend the Denali SoundBomb Mini ($27)- you will need the BMW wiring adapter ($15), but it otherwise plugs right into the stock horn location and it sounds GREAT! There are other systems out there, but they require a lot more installation time and various wiring kits. I bought mine from Revzilla.

If your bike has a 12V adapter, you can tap into one of those wires, which will only allow the lights to come on when the bike is running.

Hope this helps.

Penny,

The class I am taking is part of a series at Nashville Motorcycle Repair. Andrew (the owner and head mechanic) offers classes and workshops a couple times a year.

The current format of his classes is a weeknight hands-on class, 3 hours, $30; followed by a Saturday afternoon workshop, 3 hours, $30, on your own bike with your own agenda, with his coaching, tools, and components at hand.

These are the class offerings this year:
Starting systems
Charging systems
Carburetors
Four stroke theory and operation

Here is the link to the classes if you're interested. I've taken three other classes at NMR and I think they are worth the money even if I don't do much work myself.

Nashville Motorcycle Repair Classes and Workshops

NMR's customer base is Japanese and vintage bikes, so the classes are geared in that direction. I asked him what class I should take for my project considering I have a new computer with a bike attached to it, and starting systems in the one he recommended.  I've taken the electrical series before. We're all determined to make me understand it!

There are a lot of newer, younger riders who don't have garage space, many don't have great knowledge of the kind of bikes they can actually afford, so there are a few groups in town with a common space and they work on their stuff in groups - a collective. NMR facilitates that.

Jennifer, looks like the Touratec item should work. BTW, where is the class you are taking? It sounds very interesting.

Sent from my iPhone
You don't really have to worry about the CANBUS if you wire things right.  The CANBUS gets messed up when you significantly change the load on a circuit, like if you wire your driving lights directly to your headlights.  Using a relay avoids all that - it's a very small load that can be triggered by something that comes on (like headlights) when the key is on or the bike is running.  I don't use "CANBUS friendly" fuse blocks and have had no problems on either bike.

I have an Eastern Beaver fuse block on my RT.  It's reasonably priced, has both switched (on/off with the key) and unswitched (on all the time) circuits, and fairly compact.  Get the PC-8 with 30A relay.  You can save some money here by buying the relay and socket from an auto parts store for about $10, but you have to do more wiring yourself; getting the kit saves you a bunch of time and thought, especially if you're not familiar with how relays work.  Before ordering you will want to think about where you will mount the fuse block (probably under the seat) and how far it is to the unconventional battery location on your F700.

There are various other products on the market that give you more flexibility for a lot more money, or are more basic for less money; I found Eastern Beaver to be the best value.  It will also give you attachment points for future accessories as well - GPS, heated gear, more lights, whatever.

IMO you want the driving lights to be switched with the key also, and can still wire it with a manual switch.  It keeps you from possibly leaving the lights on when you walk away.  There's almost nothing that should be wired so that it will be powered when the key is off - battery tender if you use one, maybe a cell phone charger.

I can give you a basic wiring diagram, but you'll probably get one with the fuse block too.  And whoever is coaching you may have some different opinions than mine.
So I have reasonable mechanical skill, zero mechanical patience (the irony of that is not lost on me) and I have no idea what I'm doing in electronics.

I want to add some high-decibel horns and driving lights to my 2016 F700GS, which will require relays and switches.

This bike has a CAN bus system, which I understand only in theory. 

Smart me! I am taking a three-hour starting systems class (for the second time) this week. I am following that with a three-hour workshop on Saturday, where I get to do my own work on my own bike, with professional supervision and help.

I will have amazing tools, basic wiring components, relays, and probably switches available to me at the workshop. However, I believe I will need a fuse board and probably some other stuff as well. I know there are several folks in the club  who have experience with CAN bus systems. 

Can someone give me a grocery list or kit recommendation of what to buy ahead of time so I have a decent chance of finishing the job same day? 

I've been told to try Eastern Beaver but I have no idea what to buy there.

I also found one at Touratech but not sure if it will work, based on the description. I want to have the horn on and off with the ignition, but I want the driving lights to be on a switch so I have the option to turn them off and on. TPS 15 CAN Bus Output Helper (fuse block)

I could do research online, but I likely won't know when that info is bad or good. So I am coming here, where the credibility and accountability is better (unless Stanley is involved).

Thanks!
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